Elastic fabric and process of preparation

ABSTRACT

The disclosure provides a woven fabric, wherein all warp and weft yarns may be elastic. One or more of the weft and warp yarns may have a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that may be less elastic than said first fiber. The elastic warp yarns may have a twist level with a twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 6. In embodiments, a woven fabric may include all warp and weft yarns being elastic, all weft and warp yarns having a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than said first fiber, and the elasticity of the fabric in warp direction is at least 25% and elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E weft ) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably 40%. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction may be at least 25%.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority to and is a continuation of U.S.Application No. 14918077 filed with the United States Patent Office onOct. 20, 2015, which is hereby incorporated by reference in itsentirety. This application claims priority to European PatentApplication No. EP15161213, filed with the European Patent Office onMar. 26, 2015, which is hereby incorporated by reference in itsentirety. This application claims priority to U.S. Application No.15526973, Pat. No. 11/111,609, issued by the United States Patent Officeon Sep. 7, 2021, which is hereby incorporated by reference in itsentirety.

Suitable elastic core spun yarns may be those disclosed inWO2012/062480, which is hereby incorporated by reference in itsentirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to the manufacture of woven fabrics withstretch in warp and weft direction. It specifically relates tostretchable fabrics including a core spun yarn system and to a processfor the preparation thereof.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Elastic woven fabrics have been produced for many years. In order toproduce elastic fabrics, elastic yarns are used. In these kinds offabrics, elastic yarns provide both aesthetic, and elasticity functions.The most common way of producing stretch fabrics is weft-stretchfabrics. Weft-stretch fabrics have non-elastic warp yarns and elasticweft yarns. In these fabrics different kinds of elastic weft yarns suchas, but not limited to corespun elasthane yarns, twisted elasthaneyarns, etc. are used. However, weft-stretch fabrics are not stretchablealong the warp direction. Such fabrics are usually comfortable, buttheir comfort level is not enough during long usage times, as they donot follow the movements of the body.

In order to solve this problem, several alternative types of fabricshave been developed, for example warp-stretch fabrics, and the so called“bi-stretch” fabrics, i.e. fabrics that can be stretched in both theweft and warp directions. This bidirectional stretchability, i.e.ability to be elongated, is obtained by including elastic yarns in boththe warp and weft directions.

However, these kinds of fabrics also present drawbacks.

Warp-stretch fabrics, for example, when comprising bare elastomericends, can present grin-through of the elastomer, i.e. the exposure, in afabric, of bare elastomeric filaments to view. Grin-through can beobserved as an undesirable glitter-like effect on the surface of thefabric. Therefore, some ways to control elasticity in bi-stretch fabricshave been devised.

US6659139 describes a way to reduce grin-through of bare elastomerfibers in the warp direction of twill fabric. The fabric disclosed inUS6659139 can also have bidirectional stretch (warp and weft), but thepercentage values of stretchability are poor.

Bi-stretch fabrics known in the art also have several problems, such asthe growth of the fabric and little recovery after stretching.

WO2013/148659 discloses a woven fabric comprising a corespun elasticbase yarn and a separate control yarn, to avoid overstretching. Thecontrol yarn is hidden inside the fabric by the adjacent elasticcorespun base yarns.

A stretch fabric with a separated elastic yarn system is disclosed inUS7762287, wherein a rigid yarn is used to form the main body of afabric. Elastic composite yarns are hidden inside fabrics and providefor stretch and recovery. However, the fabric disclosed in US7762287 hasreduced stretchability in the warp and/or weft direction.

US 2012/0244771 discloses elastic composite yarns having a stretchablecore and a sheath of spun staple fibers; the core is made of an elasticfilament and an inelastic filament that is loosely wound around theelastic filament to control the stretching. The above disclosed solutionprovides bi-stretch fabrics that have acceptable recoverycharacteristics but are provided with too low elasticity (i.e. stretch),namely about 10-12% in the warp direction and 17-20% in the weftdirection.

WO20008/130563 discloses elastic yarns having a core made of aninelastic fiber loosely wound around an elastic fiber.

WO 2012/062480, in the name of the present applicant Sanko Tekstil,discloses elastic composite yarns having elastic stretchable core and asheath of inelastic staple fibers; the core is made of an elasticfilament and a less elastic filament attached together by coextrusion,intermingling, or twisting. The less elastic filament controls thestretch and provides recovery so as to move as a single fiber that hashigh elasticity and very good recovery properties.

Another problem is the poor behavior of highly elastic bi-stretchfabrics: after few stretch and return cycles, the known fabrics are notable to retain the original aspect. The fabrics lose their original handand appearance and show curling, creasing, and torqueing to such adegree that the garments made with said fabrics have to be discardedafter a short time.

A problem of the known bi-stretch fabrics, for example denim fabrics, isthat it is difficult to obtain a fabric with an appropriate balance ofphysical characteristics, suitable for garments able to combinedesirable visual and tactile aesthetics, with good performance instretchability, recovery (i.e. limited growth of the fabric after havingbeen elongated or stretched), and comfort.

For example, fabrics with a high amount of elastic yarns can have theproblem of loss of aesthetic, especially because of growth; on thecontrary, fabrics with low values of elasticity can be uncomfortable indaily life. Additionally, prolonged usage of stretch fabrics can cause aloss in recovery power of the fabric, thus causing the growth of thefabric. Another problem of the known fabrics, for example denim fabrics,is the poor body holding, i.e. body shaping power.

The above problems of recovery power, comfort in use and holding/shapingpower of the fabric are particularly present in the final garments thatare styled in the so-called skinny or super-skinny models; i.e. modelsthat require a total or almost total adherence of the garment to thebody of the user.

In view of the above-mentioned problems, there is a need for new fabricsable to combine high elasticity in multiple directions and goodaesthetics; for example, there is a need in the market for new fabricshaving an improved holding power and recovery and reduced growth,combined with good visual and tactile aesthetics.

In particular, there is a need for new bi-stretch fabrics, for exampledenim fabrics, with an improved body holding power, having an improvedrecovery and reduced growth.

More specifically, there is a need of new bi-stretch fabrics, forexample denim fabrics, with an improved body holding power and fabricsthat can follow any body movement.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, “E_(weft)” and “E_(warp)” may respectively refer to thepercentage of stretch in the weft and in the warp directions of thefabric, measured according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED (Stretch) after 3 homewashes.

An aim of the present invention is to solve the problems of the priorart, providing a bi-stretch woven fabric that have an improved holdingpower, and that provide to the garments made with the fabric a greatfreedom of movement, thus avoiding the feeling of tightness anddiscomfort.

Another aim of the present invention is to provide a bi-stretch wovenfabric that combines good performance, such as improved bodyholding/shaping power, improved recovery and reduced growth, with goodaesthetics.

A further aim of the present invention is to provide a process forproducing a bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.

Still a further aim of the present invention is to provide a clothingarticle comprising a bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.

These and other aims are achieved by a woven fabric according to claims,that can be produced by means of a process according to claims, and thatcan be used to provide a clothing article according to claims.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is a woven fabric havingelastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns, said yarns having astretchable core and an inelastic fiber sheath that covers said core,characterized in that all weft and warp yarns have a stretchable corecomprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elasticthan said first fiber, and in that the elasticity of the fabric in warpdirection is at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch,after 3 home washes) and elasticity of the fabric in weft direction(E_(weft)) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably 40%(ASTM D3107 — stretch, after 3 home washes).

Preferably, in a woven fabric according to the present invention, saidfirst fiber and second fiber are connected together by intermingling,twisting, or coextrusion to control elongation of said first fiber.

In a particular embodiment, said woven fabric has elasticity in weftdirection (E_(weft)) that is higher than the elasticity in warpdirection (E_(warp)).

Therefore, an object of the present invention is an elastic woven fabricin which all weft and warp yarns have a stretchable core comprising afirst elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than saidfirst fiber, said first fiber and second fiber are connected together byintermingling, coextrusion, or twisting to control elongation of saidfirst fiber, and in which the elasticity of the fabric in warp directionis at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 -Stretch, after 3 homewashes) and the elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_(weft)) isat least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%(ASTM D3107 — stretch, after 3 home washes) and is the same or higherthan the elasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)). In other words, thefabric of the invention can stretch at least 25% in warp direction andat least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%, inweft direction when measuring according to ASTM D3107 (modified stretchafter 3 home washes), as above mentioned.

In a preferred embodiment, the fabric undergoes finishing steps but doesnot undergo the usual heat setting treatment for elastic yarns. Heattreatment, i.e. heat setting of the fabric, is a well-known step oftraditional processes of fabric preparation, used, for example, to givedimensional stability to the elastic fabric after weaving by heating thefabric to a setting temperature for the elastomers of the elastic coreof the yarns. For example, the temperature for heat setting of lycra isabout 180° C. Heat treatment at lower temperatures, as in sanforization,at about 110° C. is usually carried out in the present invention’sprocess. According to an aspect of the invention, elasticity in the warpdirection (E_(warp)) is at least 25%, and is preferably comprised in therange of 25% to 90%, preferably 30% to 90%, more preferably 30% to 60%(ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash) and elasticity in theweft direction (E_(weft)) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, morepreferably at least 40%. E_(weft) is preferably comprised in the rangeof 30% to 150%, preferably 30% to 140%, more preferably 35% to 125%,most preferably 40% to 125% (ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 homewash).

In an exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_(weft) /E_(warp) is in the rangeof 1.4/1.0 to 3.0/1.0, preferably 1.8/1.0 to 3.0/1.0.

In another exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_(weft) /E_(warp) is in therange of 0.4/1.0 to 4.0/1.0.

Suitable elastic core spun yarns are those disclosed in WO2008/130563and in WO 2012/062480.

According to another aspect of the invention, the first fiber is a fiberthat can stretch at least for 400% of its initial length, as elongationat break, and said second fiber is a fiber with elongation that is atleast 20% of its initial length but less than the elongation of thefirst fiber, according to ASTM D3107. The first fiber and the secondfiber are connected together as disclosed in mentioned applications, forexample, as mentioned at pages 9 and 10 of WO 2012/062480.

In a preferred embodiment, the first and second fibers are intermingledand the number of connecting points is within the range of 50 to 200points per meter. In another embodiment, first and second fibers areconnected by twisting and the number of twists per meter is in the rangeof 200 to 600 twists per meter, preferably 300 to 600 twists per meter.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the core of the yarns isintermingled or twisted as per above, and the fabric is not a heat-setfabric, i.e. the fabric has not undergone a thermal treatment, as isgenerally done to set elasticity of the elastomeric fibers.

An elastic woven fabric according to the present invention has anexcellent elastic behaviour; in particular, it is possible to use highlyelastic yarns to obtain the claimed highly elastic fabric both warp andweft-wise, which was not possible with traditional fabrics andprocesses. An embodiment results in a fabric that can stretch up to 150%(ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash), or, in possibleembodiments even over 150%, weftwise, and that can return to itsoriginal shape after such a stretch. The fabric after the stretch isvisually identical to the fabric before the stretch.

This is a very important advantage over prior art bi-stretch fabricssuch as those disclosed in US 7762287. The prior art fabrics could notwithstand a stretching action as high as that claimed, without saidknown fabrics suffering visual damages in the form of undulations ortorqueing of the fabric.

A further advantage is that an elastic woven fabric having specificvalues of elasticity in the warp direction, as well as in the weftdirection, shows an improved holding power (or shaping power); inparticular, when the values of E_(weft) and E_(warp) are combined in aspecific ratio. The present invention provides an elastic woven fabric,which comprises elastic yarns of the core spun type both warpwise andweftwise, so that all yarns of the fabric are elastic yarns. Preferably,in an exemplary embodiment, the fabric has specific values of elasticityand a specific ratio between E_(warp) and E_(weft), i.e., E_(warp) is atleast 25%, and E_(weft) is equal to or higher than E_(warp). Preferably,E_(weft) is about twice the value of E_(warp), thus providing animproved body holding power and improved movement skills, a reducedgrowth of the fabric, and of the garments comprising the same.

A process for preparing said elastic woven fabric is also an object ofthe present invention. Said process is characterized by comprising thesteps of providing corespun warp yarns and weft yarns having astretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath that covers said core,said stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a secondfiber less elastic than the first fiber; weaving said warp and weftyarns to provide a fabric where all warp and all weft yarns are saidcorespun yarns; and finishing said fabric to provide a fabric havingelasticity in warp direction (Ewarp) that is at least 25% (measuredaccording to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes) and anelasticity in weft direction (Eweft) that is at least 25%, preferably atleast 30%, more preferably at least 40% (ASTM D3107 - stretch, after 3home washes).

In particular, in a process according to the invention, said first fiberand second fiber are connected together by intermingling, coextrusion,or twisting to control elongation of said first fiber.

In an exemplary embodiment, said elasticity in weft direction (E_(weft))is higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)).

Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, a process according to theinvention is characterized by comprising the steps of providing corespunwarp yarns and weft yarns having a stretchable core and an inelasticfibers sheath that covers said core, said stretchable core comprising afirst elastic fiber and a second fiber less elastic than first fibers,said first fiber and second fiber are connected together byintermingling, coextrusing, or twisting, to control elongation of saidfirst fiber; weaving said warp and weft yarns to provide a fabric whereall warp and all weft yarns are said corespun yarns; and finishing saidfabric to provide a fabric having elasticity in warp direction(E_(warp)) that is at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107—Stretch, after 3 home washes) and an elasticity in weft direction(E_(weft)) that is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, morepreferably 40% (ASTM D3107 - stretch, after 3 home washes) and that isthe same or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)).

In a preferred embodiment, the process of the invention does not includea step of heat setting of the fabric, i.e., the fabric of the inventiondoes not undergo any heat treatment.

A further object of the present invention is a clothing article made ofor comprising an elastic woven fabric according to the presentinvention.

The invention will be further disclosed with reference to the followingfigures that refer to exemplary and non-limiting embodiments andfeatures of the invention.

In embodiments, the disclosure may provide bi-stretch woven fabrics withimproved holding power. In embodiments, the fabric may provide, togarments made with the fabric, a great freedom of movement, thusavoiding the feeling of tightness and discomfort by a user.

In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a bi-stretch woven fabricthat combines good performance, such as improved body holding/shapingpower, improved recovery, and reduced growth with good aesthetics.

In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a process for producing abi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.

In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a clothing article comprisinga bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.

In embodiments, these aims may be achieved by a woven fabric accordingto claims, that may be produced by means of a process according toclaims, and that may be used to provide a clothing article according toclaims.

In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a woven fabric having elasticwarp yarns and elastic weft yarns, said yarns having a stretchable coreand an inelastic fiber sheath that covers said core. In embodiments, allweft and warp yarns may have a stretchable core comprising a firstelastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than the firstfiber. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warpdirection (E_(warp)) may be at least 25% (measured according to ASTMD3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes) and the elasticity of the fabricin the weft direction (E_(weft)) may be at least 25%. In embodiments,the elasticity may be at least 30%. In embodiments, the elasticity maybe 40%. In embodiments, the elasticity may be more than 40% (ASTM D3107;stretch, after 3 home washes).

In embodiments, in a woven fabric, a first fiber and second fiber may beconnected together by intermingling, twisting, and/or coextrusion inorder to control elongation of the first fiber.

In a particular embodiment, said woven fabric may have elasticity in theweft direction that may be greater than the elasticity in the warpdirection. In embodiments, said woven fabric may have elasticity in thewarp direction that may be greater than the elasticity in the weftdirection.

In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction maybe at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3home washes) and the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction(E_(weft)) may be at least 25% and may be the same or higher than theelasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)). In embodiments, the elasticitymay be at least 30% and may be the same or higher than the elasticity inwarp direction (E_(warp)). In embodiments, the elasticity may be atleast 40% (ASTM D3107 - stretch, after 3 home washes) and may be thesame or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)). Inother words, the fabric may stretch at least 25% in the warp directionand at least 25% in the weft direction or may stretch at least 30% inthe warp direction and at least 30% in the weft direction or may stretchat least 40% in the warp direction and at least 40% in the weftdirection when measuring according to ASTM D3107 (modified stretch after3 home washes) as mentioned above.

In embodiments, the fabric may undergo finishing steps but may notundergo a heat setting treatment for elastic yarns. Heat treatment,i.e., heat setting of a fabric, is a well-known step of traditionalprocesses of fabric preparation, used, for example, to give dimensionalstability to the elastic fabric after weaving by heating the fabric to asetting temperature for the elastomers of the elastic core of the yarns.For example, the temperature for heat setting of Lycra (a registeredtrademark of Invista) is about 180° C. In embodiments, heat treatment atlower temperatures, such as sanforization at about 110° C., may becarried out in the process of the disclosure. In embodiments, elasticityin the warp direction (E_(warp)) may be in the range of 25% to 90%. Inembodiments, elasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)) may be in therange of 30% to 90%. In embodiments, elasticity in the warp direction(E_(warp)) may be in the range of 30% to 60% measured according to (ASTMD3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes). In embodiments,elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) may be in the range of 30%to 150%. In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) maybe in the range of 30% to 140%. In embodiments, elasticity in the weftdirection (E_(weft)) may be in the range of 35% to 125%. In embodiments,elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) may be 40% to 125%. Thestretch may be measured according to ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after3 home washes.

In an exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_(weft/)E_(warp) may be in therange of 1.4/1.0 to 3.0/1.0. In embodiments, the ratio E_(weft)/E_(warp) may be in the range of 1.8/1.0 to 3.0/1.0.

In another exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_(weft)/E_(warp) may be inthe range of 0.4/1.0 to 4.0/1.0.

In embodiments, the first fiber may be a fiber that may stretch at least400% of its initial length at its breaking point. In embodiments, thesecond fiber may be a fiber with an elongation that may be at least 20%of its initial length but less than the elongation of the first fiber,according to ASTM D3107. In embodiments, the first fiber and the secondfiber may be connected together as disclosed in mentioned applications,such as in pages 9 and 10 of WO2012/062480. In embodiments, the firstand second fibers may be intermingled. In embodiments, the number ofconnecting points between the first and second fibers may be within therange of 50 to 200 points per meter. In another embodiment, the firstand second fibers may be connected by twisting. In embodiments, thenumber of twists per meter of the first and second fibers may be in therange of 200 to 600 twists per meter. In embodiments, the number oftwists per meter of the first and second fibers may be in the range of300 to 600 twists per meter.

In embodiments, the core of the yarns may be intermingled or twisted asper the discussion above, wherein the fabric is not a heat-set fabric,i.e., the fabric has not undergone a thermal treatment, as is generallydone to set elasticity of the elastomeric fibers.

It had been found in specific embodiments that an elastic woven fabricmay have an excellent elastic behavior. In particular embodiments, itmay be possible to use highly elastic yarns to obtain highly elasticfabric both warp and weft-wise that was not possible with traditionalfabrics and processes. In embodiments, the processes disclosed mayresult in a fabric that may stretch up to 150% (ASTM D1037 MODIFIED -Stretch after 3 home washes), or, in embodiments, a fabric may stretchover 150% weftwise and may return to its original shape after such astretch. The fabric after the stretch may be visually identical to thefabric before the stretch.

Other fabrics not disclosed may not be able to obtain the stretchabilityof the fabrics in the disclosure. The other fabrics may suffer visualdamages in the form of undulations or torqueing.

In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric having specific values ofelasticity in the warp direction and specific values of elasticity inthe weft direction may comprise an improved holding power (or shapingpower). In embodiments, when the values of E_(weft) and E_(warp) arecombined in a specific ratio, the elastic woven fabric may comprise animproved holding power (or shaping power). In embodiments, thedisclosure may provide an elastic woven fabric comprising elastic yarnsof the core spun type both warpwise and weftwise so that all yarns ofthe fabric may be elastic yarns. In an exemplary embodiment, the fabricmay have specific values of elasticity and a specific ratio betweenE_(warp) and E_(weft.) In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric inthe warp direction (E_(warp)) may be at least 25% and the elasticity ofthe fabric in the weft direction (E_(weft)) may be equal to or higherthan E_(warp). In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warpdirection (E_(warp)) may be at least 25% and the elasticity of thefabric in the warp direction (E_(warp)) may be equal to or greater thanthe elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_(weft)).Inembodiments, E_(weft) may be about twice the value of E_(warp), whichmay provide an improved body holding power, improved movement skills,and a reduced growth of the fabric and of garments comprising thefabric.

Embodiments may provide a process for preparing said elastic wovenfabric. The process may comprise steps including providing corespun warpyarns and weft yarns each having a stretchable core. In embodiments, aninelastic fiber sheath may cover the core. In embodiments, thestretchable core may comprise a first elastic fiber and a second fiberthat may be less elastic than the first fiber. The process may furtherinclude weaving the warp and weft yarns to provide a fabric wherein allwarp and all weft yarns may be corespun yarns. The process may furtherinclude finishing the fabric in order to provide a fabric that may haveelasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)) that may be at least 25% andan elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) that may be at least 25%(measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes). Inembodiments, the process may further include finishing the fabric inorder to provide a fabric that may have elasticity in the warp direction(E_(warp)) that may be at least 30% and an elasticity in the weftdirection (E_(weft)) that may be at least 30% (measured according toASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes). In embodiments, the processmay further include finishing the fabric in order to provide a fabricthat may have elasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)) that may be atleast 40% and an elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) that may beat least 40% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 homewashes).

In embodiments of the process, the first fiber and the second fiber maybe connected together by intermingling, coextrusion, and/or twisting inorder to control the elongation of the first fiber.

In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) may begreater than the elasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)). Inembodiments, elasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)) may be greaterthan the elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)).

In embodiments, a process may comprise steps including providingcorespun warp yarns and weft yarns having a stretchable core and aninelastic fiber sheath that covers the core. In embodiments, thestretchable core may comprise a first elastic fiber and a second fiberthat may be less elastic than the first fiber. In embodiments, the firstfiber and second fiber may be connected together by intermingling,coextrusing, and/or twisting in order to control elongation of the firstfiber. The process may further include weaving the warp and weft yarnsmay provide a fabric wherein all warp and all weft yarns may be corespunyarns. The process may further include finishing the fabric may providea fabric that may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp))that may be at least 25% and an elasticity in weft direction (E_(weft))that may be at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch,after 3 home washes). In embodiments, finishing the fabric may provide afabric that may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)) thatmay be at least 30% and an elasticity in weft direction (E_(weft)) thatmay be at least 30% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3home washes). In embodiments, finishing the fabric may provide a fabricthat may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)) that may beat least 40% and an elasticity in weft direction (E_(weft)) that may beat least 40% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 homewashes).In embodiments, the elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft))may be the same as or higher than the elasticity in the warp direction(E_(warp)). In embodiments, the elasticity in the warp direction(E_(warp)) may be the same as or greater than the elasticity in the weftdirection (E_(weft)).

In embodiments, processes disclosed may not include a step of heatsetting of the fabric, i.e., the fabric of the invention may not undergoany type of heat treatment.

In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a clothing article made of orcomprising an elastic woven fabric as disclosed in embodiments.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The novel features believed characteristic of the disclosed subjectmatter will be set forth in any claims that are filed. The disclosedsubj ect matter itself, however, as well as a preferred mode of use,further objectives, and advantages thereof, will best be understood byreference to the following detailed description of an illustrativeembodiment when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings,wherein:

FIGS. 1A and 1B show how the minimum warp elasticity required can bedetermined.

FIG. 2 is a perspective schematic view of an exemplary embodiment of afabric.

FIG. 3 displays a process for producing an elastic woven fabric inaccordance with embodiments.

FIG. 4 displays a process for producing an elastic woven fabric inaccordance with embodiments.

FIG. 5 displays a process for producing an elastic woven fabric inaccordance with embodiments.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

Reference now should be made to the drawings, in which the samereference numbers are used throughout the different figures to designatethe same components.

It will be understood that, although the terms first, second, third,etc. may be used herein to describe various elements, these elementsshould not be limited by these terms. These terms are only used todistinguish one element from another element. Thus, a first elementdiscussed below could be termed a second element without departing fromthe teachings of the present disclosure.

The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particularembodiments only and is not intended to be limiting. As used herein, thesingular forms “a”, “an”, and “the” are intended to include the pluralforms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. It willbe further understood that the terms “comprises” and/or “comprising” or“includes” and/or “including” when used in this specification, specifythe presence of stated features, regions, integers, steps, operations,elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence oraddition of one or more other features, regions, integers, steps,operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.

The disclosure relates to a woven fabric having elastic warp yarns andelastic weft yarns. The woven fabric may be characterized in that it mayhave an elasticity, i.e., it can be stretched, in the warp direction ofat least 25%, preferably at least 30%, measured according to ASTM D3107MOIDIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash, and in that elasticity of thefabric in weft direction (E_(weft)) may be equal to or higher than theelasticity of the fabric in warp direction (E_(warp)).

In view of the fact that, in embodiments, the woven fabric of thedisclosure may be elastic in both the warp and weft directions, it maybe defined as a “bi-stretch” woven fabric.

As used herein, the term “elastic yarn” may refer to a yarn comprisingan elastomeric fiber covered by a wrap, i.e., a core-spun yarn, andwhich may provide characteristics of elasticity to the woven fabric.

Suitable fibers for the elastic filament may include polyurethanicfibers such as, but not limited to elastane (e.g. Lycra®, Dorlastan (aregistered trademark of Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe GMBH, LLC), spandex(Radicci Spandex Co.), and lastol (Dow Chemical XLA).

Suitable fibers for the less elastic, control, filament may include, butare not limited to: polyamides such as nylon (e.g., nylon 6, nylon 6,6,nylon 6,12, and the like), polyester, polyolefins (such as polypropyleneand polyethylene), mixtures and copolymers of the same, and PBT andbicomponent filaments (namely elastomultiesters such as PBT/PET andPTT/PET filaments). In embodiments, suitable staple fibers for thesheath may include, but are not limited to: polyester fibers and naturalfibers, preferably cotton fibers, that can be dyed.

In embodiments, elastic yarns which may be utilized in the disclosuremay thus be disclosed in WO2012/06248. In embodiments of the elasticyarns, the two filaments of the core may be twisted at a twisting numberof at least 200 twists per meter, preferably 300 to 600 twists/meter,which may result in the two filaments elongating and retracting as asingle filament.

In embodiments, the comfort level of the bi-stretch fabric may beimproved. This improvement may be obtained due to the E_(warp) beinglower than the E_(weft.) In this bi-stretch fabric, the warp yarns mayprovide a better support against the gravity and the greater E_(weft)than E_(warp) may allow a better shaping of the body.

In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may have an elasticity in thewarp direction (E_(warp)) in the range of at least 25%, according toASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes and elasticity of thefabric in weft direction (E_(weft)) may be equal to or higher than theelasticity in the warp direction (E_(warp)).

In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may have an elasticity in thewarp direction (E_(warp)) in the range of at least 30%,-and morepreferably at least 40%, according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretchafter 3 home washes. In embodiments, wherein E_(weft) may be higher thanE_(warp), due to the fact that E_(weft) is higher than E_(warp), thecomfort level of the bi-stretch fabric of the invention may be improved.This improvement may be obtained because, when E_(warp) is lower thanE_(weft), the warp yarns of the bi-stretch fabric may provide a bettersupport against gravity; at the same time, a higher E_(weft) may allow abetter shaping of the body.

In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may have an elasticity in thewarp direction (E_(warp)) in the range of 25% to over 75%, preferably25% to 90%, more preferably 30% to 90%, most preferably 30% to 60%,according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes, and theelasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)) comprised in the range of30% to over 150%, preferably 30% to 150%, more preferably 50% to 140%,measured according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes.

In embodiments, the elastic woven fabric may have elasticity in the weftdirection (E_(weft)) that may be twice the elasticity in the warpdirection (E_(warp)), preferably two to three times E_(warp).

In embodiments, improved recovery and reduced growth may be obtained bythe bi-stretch fabric due to the providing of high elasticity in bothwarp and weft direction.

In embodiments, improved performance may be obtained by the bi-stretchfabric due to the high elasticity that may be more than what people mayneed in their daily lives. In view of this, normal daily use may notrequire the use of all elastic and elongation capacity of the fabric.Therefore, in embodiments, the fabric of the disclosure may not beoverstretched or stressed, thus avoiding damage and lack of performancesuch as lack of recovery, increased growth, and bagging.

As an example, in the so called “super-skinny” garments, the garment’scut is usually smaller than the normal body size. Therefore, justwearing super skinny garments may cause the fabric to stretch, which thegarments may be made of. In view of this fact, normal use may causestretching of the fabric of which the super-skinny garment is made. Inview of this fact, a normal use can cause overstretching of the fabricof the super-skinny garment and damage to the fabric, as well as baggingat knees and elbows. In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric of thedisclosure may avoid overstretching, damage, bagging, and otherproblems. In embodiments, these problems may be avoided due to the factthat the fabric of the disclosure may be able to move with human skin,i.e., may be able to move as human skin moves.

In embodiments, the elastic corespun yarn may have an English cottoncount ranging from 8 Ne to 90 Ne, preferably from 10 Ne to 80 Ne, morepreferably from 12 Ne to 60 Ne.

In embodiments, the elastic woven fabric may have a weight in the rangeof 3 oz/yard² to 20 oz/yard² after wash (according to ASTM D3776),preferably in the range of 4 oz/yard² to 15 oz/yard² after wash(according to ASTM D3776), more preferably from 7 oz/yard² to 14oz/yard² after wash (according to ASTM D3776).

In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric may be a denim fabric.

In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may be produced by a process 300(FIG. 3 ) including determining 305 the minimum warp elasticity(E_(warp)) required and weaving 310 warp yarns and weft yarns, whereinsaid woven fabric may be elastic in both the warp and the weft directionand the fabric in the warp direction may be at least 25%, preferably atleast 30% (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash), andelasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_(weft)) may be equal to orhigher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)), preferably twotimes the value of E_(warp), and most preferably two to three times thevalue of E_(warp).

In embodiments, the fabric may not be heat set, i.e., the fabric may notundergo a thermal treatment to set its elasticity to a pre-set value. Itwas surprisingly found that when the elastic yarns are used, inparticular the elastic yarns above disclosed by reference toWO2012/062480, the resulting fabric may not have to be heat-set to avoidthe occurrence of problems such as curling and torqueing. Inembodiments, a fabric as mentioned above may undergo a thermaltreatment.

In embodiments, possible combinations of stretch values (elasticity)measured by ASTM D3107 (stretch) after three home washings may includevalues in the ranges of: 30-75; 33-35; 53-75; 27-65; 28-50; 35-100;40-100 40-120, wherein the elasticity is given for warp-weft.

Making reference to FIGS. 1A and 1B, the minimum warp elasticityrequired may be determined by measuring the variation in the distancebetween two benchmark points “A” 30 and “B” 40 taken at two oppositeends of a joint 20, such as an elbow or a knee, for example, along theaxis of the limb 10 (e.g. an arm or a leg), on the skin of the futureuser.

In embodiments, the limb 10 may be an arm or a leg.

In embodiments, the joint 20 may be an elbow or a knee.

For example, in order to make trousers, the determination may be carriedout, in embodiments, on a knee, namely above and below a knee. On thecontrary, if the purpose is to obtain a fabric to make shirts, theminimum warp elasticity required may be determined on an elbow inembodiments.

In FIG. 1A, when the limb 10 is unbent, two benchmarks “A” 30 and “B” 40may be taken at two opposite ends of a joint 20 along the axis of thelimb 10.

In embodiments, the distance between benchmark “A” 30 and benchmark “B”40 when the limb 10 is unbent may be the value X. In embodiments, whenthe limb 10 is bent, as shown in FIG. 1B, the distance measured alongthe skin of the limb 10 between benchmark “A” 30 and benchmark “B” 40,taken at two opposite ends of a joint 20, may increase to a value Y. Thepercentage of the variation of distance X to distance Y may becalculated with the formula (Y-X)/X. The result obtained may indicatethe minimum warp elasticity required for a fabric.

In embodiments, the minimum warp elasticity required may be at least thevalue calculated using formula (Y-X)/X, wherein X may be the distancebetween the two benchmarks “A” 30 and “B” 40, taken at two opposite endsof the joint 20, along the axis of a limb 10, when the limb 10 isunbent, and Y may be the distance between the same two benchmarks whenthe limb 10 is bent.

In embodiments, the fabric may be woven in order to obtain an elasticwoven fabric having an E_(warp) that may be greater than the value of(Y-X)/X and preferably at least twice the value of (Y-X)/X.

In embodiments, the warp elasticity E_(warp) of the fabric may be 20%higher than the value of (Y-X)/X, preferably 30% higher than the valueof (Y-X)/X, and more preferably 40% higher than the value of (Y-X)/X.

In embodiments, the disclosure may further provide a process 400 forpreparing an elastic woven fabric as disclosed above and shown in FIG. 4. In embodiments, the process may include determining 405 the minimumwarp elasticity required for the fabric. In embodiments, the process mayfurther include selecting 410 an elastic yarn and a rigid yarn to beused in at least the warp yarns. In embodiments, the process may furtherinclude weaving 415 warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein said woven fabricmay be elastic in both the warp and the weft directions. In embodiments,the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_(warp)) may be atleast 30% and the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction(E_(weft)) may be higher than the elasticity in the warp direction(E_(warp)) (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes). Inembodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction(E_(warp)) may be at least 30% and the elasticity of the fabric in thewarp direction (E_(warp)) may be higher than the elasticity in the weftdirection (E_(weft)) (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 homewashes).

In embodiments, the minimum warp elasticity required for the fabric maybe calculated using formula (Y-X)/X, wherein X may be the distancebetween two benchmarks “A” 30 and “B” 40 taken at two opposite sides ofa joint 20 along the axis of a limb 10 when the limb 10 is unbent and Ymay be the distance between the same two benchmarks when the limb 10 isbent.

In embodiments, the disclosure may further provide a process 500 forpreparing an elastic woven fabric as disclosed above and shown in FIG. 5. In embodiments, a process 500 may include providing 505 corespun warpyarns and corespun weft yarns each having a stretchable core and aninelastic fiber sheath that may cover the stretchable core. Inembodiments, the stretchable cores may comprise a first elastic fiberand a second fiber, wherein the second fiber may be less elastic thanthe first elastic fiber.

The process may further include weaving 510 the corespun warp yarns andthe corespun weft yarns to create a fabric. The process may furtherinclude finishing 515 the fabric. In embodiments, the finishing 515 mayprovide the fabric with an elasticity in the warp direction of at least25% and an elasticity in the weft direction of at least 25%.

In embodiments, the finishing 515 may provide the fabric with anelasticity in the warp direction of at least 30% and an elasticity inthe weft direction of at least 30%.

In embodiments, the finishing 515 may provide the fabric with anelasticity in the warp direction of at least 40% and an elasticity inthe weft direction of at least 40%.

In embodiments, the first fiber and second fiber may be connectedtogether by at least one of intermingling, twisting, and coextrusion.

In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction(E_(weft)) may be greater than the elasticity of the fabric in the warpdirection (E_(warp)). In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric inthe warp direction (E_(warp)) may be greater than the elasticity of thefabric in the weft direction (E_(weft)).

In embodiments, the second fiber may be selected from the group of a PBTelastomultiester, a bicomponent PTT/PET, a PTT/PBT, and a nylon.

In embodiments, the first elastic fiber may be selected from the groupof a polyolefin elastomer and a polyurethane elastomer.

FIG. 2 displays a woven fabric in accordance with embodiments. The wovenfabric 50 may comprise warp yarns 51 and weft yarns 52. In embodiments,a first fiber 61 and a second fiber 62 (also referred to as core fibers63 in embodiments) may be present in the core of the warp yarns 51. Inembodiments, core fibers 63, including both first fibers 61 and secondfibers 62, may be present in the core of the weft yarns 52.

In embodiments, the second fibers 62 may be less elastic than the firstfibers 61.

FIG. 2 displays an embodiment of the woven fabric that may be abi-directional stretch fabric. In embodiments, the fabric may be denim.

In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric of the disclosure may be suitableto produce clothing articles comprising at least bi-stretch fabric. Forexample, clothing articles that may comprise the elastic woven fabricdisclosed may be leggings, pants, T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, and anyother garment. In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric of the disclosuremay be suitable to produce textiles other than clothing articles.

The following table may show the advantages of a fabric as described inan embodiment of the disclosure as far as growth of the fabric isconcerned.

TABLE 1 Required Elasticity % Growth for 80% elastic fabric (ASTM D3107)Growth for 50% elastic fabric (ASTM D3107) Growth for 20% elastic fabric(ASTM D3107) 10 1 1 1 20 1.5 3 6 30 2 4 - 40 3 5 - 50 4 7 - 60 5 - - 655.5 - - 70 5.8 - - 75 7.5 - - 80 10 - -

In the above table, the required elasticity may be the elasticitydetermined or measured as previously discussed, e.g., it may be knownthat the elasticity required for the fabric of a legging or skinny jeansis 20% when the actual fabric used has a 20% elasticity. The result maybe a growth of the fabric with use and a bagging resulting at the knees.Additionally, any holding and shaping power of the fabric may bedecreased with time.

If, in embodiments, for a leggings or jeans garment, the used fabric hasan elasticity of 50%, the growth may be only 3 or 1.5 if a fabric having80% elasticity is utilized.

If, in embodiments, a required elasticity of a fabric is 50%, the use ofa 50% elastic fabric may result in a growth of 7% of the fabric comparedto a growth of 4% of the fabric if a fabric having 80% elasticity isused.

In embodiments, a garment may be customized to the final user’s bodystructure. By measuring the required elasticity on a user’s body aspreviously mentioned it may be possible to select a garment, inembodiments, that may have an elasticity that more properly suits auser’s body and movement characteristics.

For the purposes of this disclosure, the term “inelastic fiber sheath”may refer to a sheath comprising one or more fibers that may envelopand/or cover at least a portion of a stretchable core of a yarn.

For the purposes of this disclosure, the terms “method” and “process”may be interchangeable.

In embodiments of any processes disclosed, the fabric, yarn, and/orfibers may comprise any disclosed characteristics.

In embodiments, suitable elastic core spun yarns may be those disclosedin WO2008/130563, which is hereby incorporated by reference in itsentirety.

In embodiments, original polymers may be utilized. For the purposes ofthis disclosure, the term “original polymers” may refer to polymers thatare utilized that are in their original form of when they had first beendiscovered. In embodiments, trademarked polymers may be utilized. It isnoted that trademarked polymers may vary in characteristics fromoriginal polymers, such characteristics being, for example, molecularweight, branching, and density.

While this disclosure has been particularly shown and described withreference to preferred embodiments thereof and to the accompanyingdrawings, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that variouschanges in form and details may be made therein without departing fromthe spirit of this disclosure. Therefore, the scope of the disclosure isdefined not by the detailed description but by the appended claims.

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 39. A woven fabric comprising; elastic warp yarns; elasticweft yarns, said elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns each having astretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath covering said core, saidstretchable core including a first elastic fiber and a second fiber thatis less elastic than said first elastic fiber; said woven fabric havingan elasticity in warp direction of at least 25% (measured according toASTM D3107 - Stretch); and said elastic warp yarns having a twist levelwith a twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to
 6. 40. The woven fabricaccording to claim 39, comprising: wherein the twist multiplier is inthe range of 3.5 to 4.7.
 41. The woven fabric according to claim 39,comprising: wherein said first elastic fiber and said second fiber areintermingled with a number of connecting points within the range of 20to 1000 twists per meter; said elasticity in said weft direction isgreater than said elasticity in said warp direction; said second fibercomprises a PBT elastomultiester, a bicomponent PTT/PET or PTT/PBT, ornylon; and said first elastic fiber comprises a polyolefin elastomer ora polyurethane elastomer.
 42. The woven fabric according to claim 39,comprising: wherein said first elastic fiber is stretchable to at least400% of an initial length of said first elastic fiber and said secondfiber is stretchable to at least 20% of an initial length of said secondfiber but is less stretchable than said first elastic fiber.
 43. Thewoven fabric according to claim 39, comprising: wherein said wovenfabric comprises denim.
 44. A clothing article comprising: a wovenfabric, said woven fabric comprising elastic warp yarns and elastic weftyarns; said elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns each having astretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath covering said core, saidstretchable core including a first elastic fiber and a second fiber thatis less elastic than said first elastic fiber, said woven fabric havingan elasticity in warp direction of at least 25% (measured according toASTM D3107 - Stretch), and said elastic warp yarns having a twist levelwith a twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to
 6. 45. The clothingarticle according to claim 44, comprising: wherein the twist multiplierlies in the range of 3.5 to 4.7 and said elasticity in weft direction isgreater than said elasticity in warp direction.
 46. The clothing articleaccording to claim 44, comprising: wherein said first elastic fiber isstretchable to at least 400% of an initial length of said first elasticfiber and said second fiber is stretchable to at least 20% of an initiallength of said second fiber, said second fiber being less stretchablethan said first elastic fiber.
 47. The clothing article according toclaim 44, comprising: wherein said first elastic fiber and said secondfiber are intermingled with a number of connecting points within therange of 20 to 1000 twists per meter; said elasticity in said weftdirection is greater than said elasticity in said warp direction; saidsecond fiber comprises a PBT elastomultiester, a bicomponent PTT/PET orPTT/PBT, or nylon; and said first elastic fiber comprises a polyolefinelastomer or a polyurethane elastomer.
 48. The woven fabric according toclaim 39, comprising: said woven fabric having elasticity in weftdirection of at least 40% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch).49. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising: said wovenfabric having elasticity in weft direction of at least 40% (measuredaccording to ASTM D3107 - Stretch).
 50. The woven fabric according toclaim 39, further comprising: wherein elasticity of the fabric in weftdirection (E_(weft)) is higher than the elasticity in warp direction(E_(warp)).
 51. The woven fabric according to claim 39, furthercomprising: wherein elasticity of the fabric in warp direction(E_(warp)) is higher than elasticity in the weft direction (E_(weft)).52. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising: whereinelasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_(weft)) is higher than theelasticity in warp direction (E_(warp)).
 53. The clothing articleaccording to claim 44, comprising: wherein elasticity of the fabric inwarp direction (E_(warp)) is higher than elasticity in the weftdirection (E_(weft)).